Shipping Capes and Antlers Home

You've just finished what might have been the hunt of a lifetime in New Mexico, whether it was a brute bull elk from the Gila or a majestic mule deer from the northern mountains. The adrenaline is fading, the meat is packed, but then you're faced with the next challenge: how do you get that hard-earned cape and rack home safely, especially if you're traveling a long distance? It’s a common frustration, and frankly, it can be just as complex as the hunt itself if you don't know the ropes. This guide is here to walk you through the essential steps and considerations for securely shipping your valuable trophies from New Mexico back to your home, ensuring they arrive in prime condition for your taxidermist.

Understanding New Mexico's Rules Before You Ship

Before you even think about packaging that cape or strapping those antlers down, it's absolutely critical to understand the regulations that govern the transport of game parts. New Mexico, like every state, has specific rules, and ignoring them can turn your successful hunt into a real headache at a checkpoint or with a shipping carrier. This isn't just about avoiding a fine; it's about ethical hunting and preserving the integrity of wildlife management.

Game and Fish Requirements for Transport

First and foremost, any big game animal harvested in New Mexico must be properly tagged immediately after the kill. This tag, which includes your license number and specific hunt information, must remain attached to the animal until it reaches its final destination, whether that's your freezer, a processor, or a taxidermist. For antlers and horns, the tag typically needs to be affixed to the largest part of the skull or the horn itself. For capes, it often remains with the hide. You might think, "Well, I'm just shipping it," but that tag is your proof of legal harvest and ownership, and it must accompany the animal parts every step of the way. If you're a nonresident, make sure you understand the nuances of interstate transport requirements, as some states may require additional documentation upon entry. It’s always smart to have a copy of your New Mexico license and tag handy, even if it's just on your phone, to prove legal harvest. Remember, the rules aren't there to make things difficult; they're in place to protect wildlife from illegal activity.

CWD Considerations for Carcass Parts

Chronic Wasting Disease (CWD) is a serious neurological disease that affects deer, elk, and moose, and it's a major concern for wildlife agencies across North America, including in New Mexico. Because CWD prions can be found in certain parts of an infected animal, like the brain and spinal cord, there are often strict regulations about transporting these specific parts across state lines, or even within New Mexico. The general rule of thumb, which is a good practice no matter where you hunt, is to only transport boned-out meat, cleaned skull plates (antlers attached), cleaned skulls (for European mounts), hides/capes, and teeth.

New Mexico's Game and Fish Department will have updated guidelines on CWD zones and carcass transport rules. For instance, if you harvest an animal in a CWD-positive unit, there may be enhanced restrictions on what parts you can take out of that area. It's not uncommon for states to prohibit the transport of spinal columns, brain material, or entire heads with brain tissue intact, unless they are destined for a taxidermist or processor within the state, or have been completely cleaned. Before you head out, or certainly before you prepare your trophy for shipment, always check the current New Mexico hunting regulations booklet for the most up-to-date CWD rules. You can find essential information on this topic in articles like Carcass Transport Rules After a CWD Detection.

Interstate vs. Intrastate Shipping Differences

Shipping within New Mexico is generally simpler than shipping across state lines, but both still require careful attention to detail. If your taxidermist is just a few hours' drive away in Albuquerque or Santa Fe, you might be able to transport the cape and antlers yourself. However, for a hunter heading back to, say, Texas or California, the game changes. Each state has its own set of import regulations for wild game parts, and what's perfectly legal in New Mexico might be an issue in your home state.

Before your hunt, it’s a smart move to contact your home state's game and fish agency to understand their requirements for importing game. Some states might require a permit, an inspection, or a specific declaration form. Always err on the side of caution. Print out any necessary forms, gather your New Mexico tags and licenses, and keep them with your trophy parts. Reputable outfitters and expediting services often have experience with these interstate regulations and can be invaluable resources. This is where planning ahead with resources like GoHunt or even looking at outfitters on BookYourHunt who offer post-hunt services can make a huge difference.

Preparing Your Cape for Shipping

The cape – the skin from the head, neck, and shoulders – is arguably the most delicate and valuable part of your trophy for a shoulder mount. Improper care or preparation before shipping can lead to hair slippage, freezer burn, or irreparable damage that a taxidermist can’t fix. Think of it as an investment; proper field care and preservation are critical to protecting that investment.

Field Care and Initial Preservation

The moment your animal is down, the clock starts ticking, especially in New Mexico's often warm weather. Field care for your cape is paramount. First, get the animal to a cool, shaded area as quickly as possible. For detailed guidance on this, check out Field Dressing in Desert Heat. The primary goal is to cool the hide and begin the skinning process. When skinning for a shoulder mount, ensure you leave plenty of cape material. Many taxidermists prefer a generous amount, extending well behind the animal’s front legs. Make sure your cuts are clean and precise.

Once the cape is removed, it needs to be fleshed. This means scraping off all excess meat, fat, and membrane from the underside of the hide. This is crucial because these tissues retain heat and moisture, which can cause bacterial growth and hair slippage. If you're not confident in your fleshing skills, many processing facilities or even some outfitters offer this service. After fleshing, the cape needs to cool down completely. For early season hunts, especially, you might need to find ways to cool the cape quickly, perhaps by placing it in a game bag and hanging it overnight in a cool canyon breeze, or even in a cooler without direct ice contact (use frozen water bottles or block ice wrapped in towels).

Salting and Drying for Long-Term Transport

For any cape that needs to be shipped long distances or stored for more than a few days, salting is the golden standard for preservation. After fleshing, liberally apply non-iodized salt to the entire flesh side of the cape. Use a fine-grain salt if possible, ensuring every inch is covered. Don't skimp on the salt – you'll need several pounds for a deer or elk cape. The salt draws moisture out of the hide, preventing bacterial growth.

After the initial salting, let the cape sit in a cool, well-ventilated area, preferably on a slanted surface so moisture can drain away. After 24-48 hours, you'll notice a lot of moisture has been drawn out. At this point, you should scrape off the old, wet salt and apply a fresh, heavy layer of new salt. This second salting is often critical for thorough preservation. Once re-salted, the hide should be allowed to dry further. Depending on humidity, this can take several days to a week. The goal is to get the hide stiff and dry, almost like cardboard. A properly salted and dried cape can be stored indefinitely without refrigeration, making it ideal for shipping.

Packaging for Safe Transit

Once your cape is thoroughly salted and dried, it's ready for packaging. The key is to protect it from moisture, pests, and physical damage during transit. Start by folding the dry cape flesh-to-flesh, then roll it into a compact bundle. Place this bundle inside several heavy-duty plastic garbage bags, sealing each bag securely with duct tape. This creates a moisture barrier.

Next, place the bagged cape into a sturdy cardboard box. The box should be large enough to comfortably hold the cape without forcing it, but not so large that it allows excessive movement during shipping. Fill any empty spaces in the box with crumpled newspaper or packing peanuts to prevent shifting. Securely tape the box shut with strong packing tape. Clearly label the box with your name, address, phone number, and the recipient taxidermist's information. It's also a good idea to write "TAXIDERMY SPECIMEN" and "ANIMAL HIDE" on the box. For additional peace of mind, you might consider attaching copies of your New Mexico license and tag inside the box, along with the physical tag attached to the hide itself.

Preparing Your Antlers/Horns for Shipping

Antlers and horns, while more robust than capes, still require careful preparation to prevent damage during their journey home. Cracked skull plates, broken points, or chipped bases can be devastating to a trophy. Taking the time to properly clean, dry, and package them will ensure they arrive in the same condition they left the New Mexico backcountry.

Cleaning and Drying Skulls and Antlers

If you're shipping a skull plate with antlers attached, or a full skull for a European mount, thorough cleaning is essential. For a skull plate, ensure all brain matter, meat, and tissue are removed from the skull portion. This prevents decomposition and odor, which no shipping carrier or recipient wants. Use a wire brush and a strong knife to meticulously clean the bone.

For full European mounts, the skull needs to be completely defleshed and degreased. This often involves boiling or maceration, followed by bleaching. If you're doing this yourself, ensure the skull is completely dry before packaging. Any residual moisture can lead to mold or a foul smell. Make sure the antlers themselves are also clean of any dried blood or debris. Allow everything to air dry thoroughly in a shaded, well-ventilated area for several days to a week. For high-country elk hunts, consider seeking assistance from local processors near areas like the Gila, who are well-versed in preparing skulls.

Protecting Points and Pedicles

Antler points are incredibly susceptible to breaking during transit, especially on larger, wider racks. Pedicles, where the antlers attach to the skull, are also vulnerable, particularly if the skull plate is thin or cracked. The goal is to cushion and immobilize the antlers as much as possible.

One common method is to wrap each individual tine with bubble wrap, newspaper, or even old towels, securing it with tape. For really sharp or delicate points, you might fashion small cardboard cones to protect them. Once all points are wrapped, you can further secure the entire rack. Many hunters will place a piece of plywood or sturdy cardboard over the skull plate, extending out to protect the pedicles, and then tie the antlers securely to this base. Some will even build a small cradle of 2x4s around the pedicles for maximum protection. The idea is to create a rigid, protected unit that can withstand bumps and jostles without transferring that impact to the delicate points.

Boxing and Crating Options

For most deer antlers, a heavy-duty cardboard box can suffice if properly prepared. You'll likely need an extra-large box, possibly one designed for bicycles or oddly shaped items. Reinforce the box with plenty of packing tape, especially along the seams. Place the protected antlers inside, filling all voids with crumpled newspaper, packing peanuts, or even old clothes to prevent movement. The more tightly packed and cushioned the antlers are, the less likely they are to get damaged.

For large elk or moose antlers, or any rack that is particularly wide or heavy, a custom wooden crate is often the best and safest option. While this is a more expensive and time-consuming route, it offers unparalleled protection. You can either build one yourself or have a local carpentry shop or expediter construct one. The crate should be built to the exact dimensions of your antlers, with internal bracing to hold them firmly in place. Again, ensure the skull plate is secured to the bottom or back of the crate to prevent any shifting. Label the crate clearly with all necessary information and mark it "FRAGILE" and "THIS END UP."

Choosing a Shipping Method and Partner

Once your trophies are meticulously prepared and packaged, the final hurdle is selecting the right method and partner to get them home. This decision often balances cost, speed, and the level of care you expect for your hard-earned trophy.

Commercial Carriers vs. Specialty Shippers

You have a few options when it comes to shipping. Standard commercial carriers like FedEx, UPS, or the USPS can handle smaller, well-packaged antlers and capes. They are often the most economical choice, especially if you're shipping within the continental U.S. However, they typically handle packages with automated systems, which means your trophy could be subjected to rough handling. If you choose this route, ensure your packaging is incredibly robust, almost over-engineered, to withstand potential drops and jostles. Be sure to check their specific restrictions on shipping animal parts, as policies can vary. Some may have size or weight limits, or specific rules for biological materials.

For larger, heavier, or particularly delicate trophies, or if you're shipping internationally, specialty expediting services or freight carriers are often a better, albeit more expensive, choice. These companies specialize in shipping oversized, fragile, or unusual items, and often have more experience with wild game trophies. They use different handling methods, sometimes even hand-loading, which can reduce the risk of damage. Many taxidermists also offer shipping services or can recommend reliable expediters they frequently work with.

Working with a Taxidermist or Expediter

Often, the easiest and safest way to ship your trophy is to coordinate directly with your taxidermist or a dedicated expediting service. If you've already chosen a taxidermist, discuss their preferences for receiving trophies. Many taxidermists prefer to handle the final fleshing, salting, or freezing themselves if they are local, or they'll provide specific instructions for out-of-state clients. They might even have preferred shipping partners or can arrange for pickup from a local New Mexico processor. This approach minimizes the risk of improper preparation or damage during transit because professionals handle it every step of the way.

An expediter is a company that specializes in handling and shipping hunting trophies. They often have established relationships with carriers and customs brokers, which is invaluable for international shipments. They can manage all the necessary paperwork, ensure proper packaging, and navigate complex regulations. While adding to the overall cost, the peace of mind and reduced hassle they offer can be well worth it, especially for high-value trophies or complex logistics. Articles like Taxidermy Referrals Your Outfitter Can Make can help you find reputable professionals. Even if you're planning a DIY hunt, using platforms like GoHunt for research might lead you to reputable outfitters who can provide advice or connections for trophy handling.

Shipping Method	Cost (General Shape)	Speed	Handling Care	Best For
Commercial Carrier	Lower	Standard	Automated, less careful	Smaller, robust antlers; well-packaged capes
Specialty Expediter	Higher	Standard to Expedited	Manual, more careful	Large, delicate trophies; international
Personal Transport	Fuel + Time	Immediate	Highest	Short distances; full control

Cost Considerations and Insurance

Shipping a trophy is not cheap. The cost will depend on the size and weight of your package, the distance it needs to travel, the speed of service, and the carrier or expediter you choose. A large elk rack in a wooden crate, for example, could easily run into several hundred dollars, or even more for international shipping. Factor these costs into your overall hunt budget. When you're researching potential New Mexico hunts, keep in mind the additional expenses that accumulate beyond just the tag fees, which you can learn more about in What New Mexico Charges Per Species Application.

It is highly recommended to purchase shipping insurance for your trophy. While it's an added expense, the emotional and financial value of a trophy, especially if it's a once-in-a-lifetime animal, far outweighs the cost of insurance. If the unthinkable happens and your trophy is damaged or lost in transit, insurance can help cover the costs of repair or, at the very least, compensate you for the loss. Document your trophy thoroughly with photos before you ship, and keep all shipping receipts and insurance paperwork in a safe place.

Remember, the goal is to get your trophy home in perfect condition, ready to commemorate your New Mexico adventure. Taking the time to properly prepare and ship your cape and antlers is the final, crucial step in that journey.

Disclaimer

This article is for general informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice. Laws, prices and regulations vary by location and change over time. Consult a qualified professional for guidance on your specific situation.